On a beautiful, sunlit day in early December, Tim & I
went hunting for waterfalls along the Cherohala Skyway. Locals told us that we’d find at least eight
falls within hiking distance along this scenic road that cuts through the Cherokee
National Forest.
With time to kill while we waited for the repairs on our RV
to be completed, Tim & I decided to drive the Cherohala in its entirety
from Tellico Plains, TN to Robbinsville, NC, a distance of approximately 40
miles.
Actually, we had no choice but to
drive it entirely because once you set forth on the skyway, there are no
alternative routes back. Neither are
there gas stations or food vendors. Fortunately we had full tummies and a
full tank.
The mile-high skyway, peaking at 5,390 feet, took over 30
years to build and cost more than $100 million.
One of 96 National Scenic Byways, many people say the Cherohala rivals
and even surpasses its neighbor, the better-known Blue Ridge Parkway on the other
side of the Smoky Mountains. If it's not the best, it runs a close second!
Finding our first waterfall was easy. The dramatic Bald River Falls cascades over
100 feet to the rocks below and you can see it without leaving your car.
Of course, we did leave the car because we wanted to get as
close as possible. We wanted to hear its
voice roaring in our ears and feel its mist caressing our faces.
Dropping the car in the nearby parking area, we walked back
to the bridge. Slippery with the ice
that had formed from the mist, the bridge was almost my downfall. If another couple had not warned me to
proceed with caution, I would have fallen flat on my face. As it was, I had to windmill my arms to
retain my balance. Still, it was worth
it to experience this majestic force of nature.
We had to work harder to find the next waterfall. Taking the trail at the upper end of Bald
River Falls’ parking lot, we climbed above the falls. Our second destination was Kahuna Falls.
Working our way upstream was not easy due to
the frost-covered rocky trail, but we made it.
Although the drop at Kahuna Falls is only 10 feet, making it less spectacular than its sister, the falls were still worth
the hike to view them.
We’d hoped to continue upwards on the same trail to Bald
River Cascade, but as we climbed, the path became more and more treacherous. Deciding to stay safe rather than sorry, we
turned around before we ever made it to the cascades.
Our consolation prize was the rainbow that formed out of the mists of Bald River Falls.
Back in our car, we began
to realize that we were not the only hunters on the skyway. Biologists estimate that the population of black bears in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is roughly 1,500 and we were just outside the park's confines.
The volunteer at the Cherohala Visitors Center back in Tellico Plains had warned us that today was the opening day of hunting season for black bears, but we thought little of it at the time. However, pickups loaded for bear were almost the only traffic we encountered all day.
Clustered in several of the scenic overlooks were hunters outfitted with
orange vests and camouflage pants. I
didn’t feel comfortable snapping photos of men carrying guns so the only shots
I took were at zoom level. I did capture
one close-up though--a hunting dog who was raring to be released.
Seeing all the hunters made us re-evaluate our own
hunt. Was it really worth tramping
through the woods without the protection of orange clothing just to capture
another digital image of a waterfall? We
thought not!
Instead we opened the sunroof on the car and listened to
Christmas carols while we exclaimed over the beauty we found around every
curve. No doubt our singing along with
the music scared the bears away because we didn’t see a one. Perhaps we were
also lucky that no hunter took offense at our noise.
Lake Santeetlah with its 76 miles of shore appeared on our left. It was tempting to stop but we were burning daylight and needed to press on.
At the end of the road and three hours after we'd begun, we turned off
the skyway onto Highway 129. We headed back to Vonore, TN, through The Tail of the Dragon, an 11-mile-long
series of hairpin twists and turns.
I
can attest to the suitability of the road’s name. It was easy to imagine that the road mimicked
the snap of a dragon’s tail.
Even though
Tim took it slow, there were still times when I had to clutch my seat’s armrest to feel secure.
I’m not sure it counts as a waterfall, but the spew of water
through the floodgates of the Cheoah Dam recalled for us the 3 days of rain
earlier that week. No doubt the runoff
of that water contributed to the spectacular volume being released over the
dam’s spillway. This dam might look familiar. It was used as a filming location for the 1993 movie, The Fugitive, starring Harrison Ford.
Towards the top of The Tail was a scenic overlook that showed how far we'd come from the Dam.
We saw a several small waterfalls as we traveled along the
Tail. These were nestled in the bends of
the road as we came around the curves.
So I guess that upped our waterfall count for the day. We were still short of the eight promised
by the locals, but the ones we saw were definitely worth the hunt.
Tim,
ReplyDeleteAre you CCDW equipped as you trek through these backwoods? Be safe from four-legged and two-legged creatures, and those that crawl on their bellies!
You bet Terry! Got my card and ready to roll... Tim
DeleteAwesome adventure please be safe! Love you both!😍😘🎄
ReplyDeleteDon't worry! We are much less adventurous than we used to be. Enjoy the season, Yas!
Delete