Thursday, July 13, 2017

Three Island Crossing


When pioneers entered present-day Idaho on the Oregon Trail, many had already traveled more than a thousand miles.


The way was littered with abandoned wagons, dashed dreams and graves.  Still, a great deal of the pioneers' journey remained ahead, and almost immediately, the emigrants faced new obstacles, chief of which was the Snake River.


Near what is now Glenns Ferry, Idaho, the emigrants had a difficult decision to make.  They could attempt the treacherous Three Island Crossing to reach a shorter, easier route north of the Snake River Valley, or they could stay on the rough and dry southern route.  About half of the emigrants decided to cross the swift, deep river here, using the three islands as stepping stones.

Three Island Crossing by William Henry Jackson

"Husband had considerable difficulty crossing the cart.  Both the cart and the mules were capsized in the water and the mules entangled in the harness.  They would have drowned, but for a desperate struggle to get them ashore.  Then after putting two of the strongest horses before the cart and two men swimming behind to steady it, they succeeded in getting it over."  Narcissa Whitman, 1836
Three Island Crossing State Park

Realizing that we needed to push on if we hoped to reach Portland by the middle of July, Tim and I bypassed Fort Hall and several other Oregon Trail milestones in Idaho to spend two nights at Three Island Crossing State Park on the outskirts of Glenns Ferry.

The bottom photos are a replica of the ferry.

Gustavus Glenn in 1869 constructed a ferry here to assist emigrants across the river.  I wonder how much business he had, given that was the year the transcontinental railroad was completed.  But undoubtedly, there were those who couldn't afford a train ticket, plus the freight to ship their possessions west.  I hope they had the money to pay for Glenn's ferry.


We enjoyed our stay at Three Island Crossing State Park.  With over 80 campsites and a small museum, the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, the park is a green oasis kept that way by the rangers who turn on the sprinkler system with great regularity.  Daily, we dodged the spray as we walked the lower loop and then the upper loop on the cliff overlooking the river.  The contrast between the park and the rough desert terrain next to it is striking.  It's amazing what irrigation can do.

Because we had a rest day here, we drove our car along a portion of the Oregon Trail Back Country Byway.  


Wagon ruts were clearly visible in several places, proof of the pioneers' arduous journey.  


High atop a bluff was the Three Island Overlook, the best view of the three islands.  This must have been the vantage point William Henry Jackson recalled when in later life, he painted his watercolor of Three Island Crossing.


Today, the Snake River Valley is home to more than 50 wineries. The Crossings Winery just beyond the park's boundary, was too close for us to resist.  Tim and I tried several of its award-winning wines before we finally agreed that Passion Peach Sangria was our favorite.

Certainly, that decision was trivial to the life-or-death one the emigrants faced here at Three Island Crossing.



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